1. Keep Skin Moist to Boost Cell Turnover
While the primary goal of reducing hyperpigmentation is to reach an even complexion, an effective over-the-counter (OTC) moisturizer should also contain ingredients that benefit the skin in other ways.
“In addition to addressing the pigment issues, a good product will have moisturizing agents like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and maybe even a retinol to boost cell turnover,” says Doris J. Day, MD, a clinical professor of dermatology at NYU Medical School in New York City and the author of Beyond Beautiful: Using the Power of Your Mind and Aesthetic Breakthroughs to Look Naturally Young and Radiant. “These inactive ingredients allow the active brighteners to work more effectively.”
Dr. Day also says that layering ceramides with the hyaluronic acid is a great way to stay moisturized, as both of these chemicals are naturally found in the skin.
2. Wear Sunscreen Daily
The most effective way to prevent sun-induced discoloration is to diligently apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor of 30 or greater every day, even on cloudy or cool days. “[Ultraviolet] rays just send the pigment into overdrive, turning dark spots darker,” says Day. “You must wear sunblock daily on exposed areas.”
Day says that a new, U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)–approved ingredient for sunscreen is bemotrizinol, or BEMT. According to Day, sunscreens with BEMT are great for a wide range of skin tones.
3. Keep Your Hands Off Bug Bites, Blackheads, and Other Injuries
As tempting as it may be to scratch a mosquito bite or squeeze a stubborn blackhead, remember your mother’s warning — “Don’t pick!” — and follow that advice.
“Scratching and picking at a spot will only increase the inflammation that’s responsible for skin discoloration,” says Jeanine Downie, MD, a dermatologist and the director of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey. “The more you mess with it now, the worse it’ll look later.”
4. Use Products to Even Skin Tone
The sooner you treat hyperpigmentation, the easier it will be to erase. “The pigment in brown spots can move deeper into the skin over time,” Dr. Downie says.
The good news is that there are several ingredients that have been shown to assist in smoothing out your skin, and many of them can be found online. When you’re heading to the store, look for at least one of the following ingredients:
- Azelaic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Vitamin C
- Retinoids
5. Consider an Rx for Stubborn Skin Discoloration
If OTC remedies aren’t helping, it may be time to call in the pros. Dermatologists consider products with hydroquinone, alone or combined with other ingredients, to be the gold standard for fading dark spots because hydroquinone slows the production of pigment. These are available by prescription, per the FDA.
“It’s our go-to,” says Downie, “because unlike many of the ingredients in OTC products, it almost always works at eliminating hyperpigmentation.” Have your dermatologist closely monitor the hydroquinone treatment, she adds. In high concentrations, hydroquinone can cause sun sensitivity or have adverse outcomes.
Day says that prescription options depend on the cause of the hyperpigmentation, but they can include a combination of topicals, such as a retinol or a prescription pill like tranexamic acid, alongside antioxidants and increased sun protection.
6. Ask a Dermatologist About High-Tech Options
If topical solutions aren’t fixing the problem, you may want to talk to your dermatologist about more aggressive ways to banish discoloration, such as chemical peels, microneedling, microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, or a laser resurfacing procedure.
For those with very sensitive skin, broadband light therapy (BBL), which uses high-intensity light that’s gentler than a laser, may be a suitable alternative, Downie says.
Because of this, some treatments, including laser treatments and BBLs (or “photofacials”), can worsen discoloration if used incorrectly. Skin specialists who treat hyperpigmentation carefully assess a patient’s skin before recommending procedures. Be sure to ask plenty of questions and ensure that you’re working with a professional who is well-versed in your skin type and tone.
For patients with darker skin tones, Day recommends a newer option called a cold-ablative laser.
“Now, we have lasers that work broadly across a broad range of skin tones, from very fair to very dark, safely. It doesn’t build heat, but it works great for hyperpigmentation — whether it’s melasma or acne scarring, acne discoloration, or marks left over from trauma,” she says.
7. Try Aloe Vera
Social media is rife with recommendations for at-home “quick fix” skin solutions. But most of these overpromise and underdeliver, says Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center in Westerville. However, some research suggests that one popular remedy may be worth it.
“Aloe vera, and the active chemical aloesin, is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory effects, which is why it is commonly recommended over the counter to help with skin irritation and sunburns,” Dr. Massick says.
Does Hyperpigmentation Treatment Change for Darker Skin Tones?
There are some differences in the approach to treating hyperpigmentation, depending on skin tone, such as Day’s choice of a cold-ablative laser for people with darker skin tones, instead of one that utilizes heat.
She also says that the origin of the hyperpigmentation is important to consider. For example, the treatment for someone whose concerns are more prominent during the summer months may be different from someone whose skin tone didn’t shift until after pregnancy. This is why consulting with a medical professional is paramount for your treatment, even if you choose to buy your products OTC.
The consensus among the experts is that alongside sound medical advice, sun safety and prevention are some of the most important ways to navigate hyperpigmentation, regardless of your skin type or tone.
