Rose carries a lot of industry goodwill. Since rumors began swirling on social media about her appointment, scores of editors, stylists, influencers and celebrities rejoiced online. Her offbeat menswear, inspired by British subcultures from football casuals to rave kids, skinheads to reggae heads, has won the designer many fans since she launched her eponymous label in 2007. Not least Kendrick Lamar, who posted about Rose after she made looks for his Big Steppers tour in 2022: “Bucket list to work with Martine Rose…” he posted to his then-12 million Instagram followers, alongside a photo of Rose peace-signing into the camera. Other celebrity fans include Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Timothée Chalamet, all of whom have been spotted wearing her oversized, sports-infused fits in recent years.
The Balenciaga appointment has come at a good time for the designer. She has faced major challenges at her eponymous label in recent years, since selling a 60% stake in the business to incubator Tomorrow Ltd in 2023. Rose was in a dispute with Tomorrow Ltd over the handling of her brand, which became apparent when she announced she would not produce her FW26 collection in March. Tomorrow released a counter statement, and ultimately, as major shareholders of the brand, they were able to produce the collection, despite Rose’s announcement.
Shortly after, in March of this year, Tomorrow sold Rose’s brand to Italian company The Level Group (Paris label Coperni was also bought by The Level Group, and the founders announced this week that they will shutter the brand). Rose has not staged a fashion show since SS26 last June.
